It’s an absolute iconic scene. Huskies running over the ice and snow with spectacular views over the Norwegian hills. Being in Norway, husky sledding is something I just had to try. On television, it looks amazing. In real life? It’s astonishingly beautiful!

Oslo and it’s surroundings are beautiful, but any Norwegian from that area will tell you that if you want to see the ‘real’ Norway, you have to at least drive for 2 hours up north. And so you can find a husky sledding experience close to Oslo, but I set out to go to a ski resort called Geilo on a 4 hour drive from Oslo.

While this may seem like a long drive, and it is, it’s worth it. Passing huge lakes and gorgeous mountains all covered in snow, there is not a moment this trip gets dull.

Sledding with Fagerlund Husky

While there are a couple of husky sledding providers in and around Geilo, I find Fagerlund Husky to be very responsive and flexible upon reservation. Upon arrival in Geilo, we have been picked up by a very friendly staff member of Fagerlund Husky. After a 15 minute drive, we arrive at a small camp with fireplace and tent.

After a small introduction and a friendly chat, we get into the tent to change some of our clothing. While the weather is really sunny today, the wind and snow will make it very cold and therefore good clothing is a necessity. Fagerlund Husky provides us with some decent winter clothing.

Keep calm and control your huskies!

Sledding the huskies on a frozen lake is absolutely amazing. But what if I tell you that you won’t just be sitting in the sleigh relaxing and enjoying the spectacular sights? What if I tell you that you will actually be the one that controls the huskies and sleigh?!

Yes, this may seem a little scary, but rest assured, it’s absolutely not hard to do. In our trip we took two laps around the lake. A little stop half way makes it possible to change position from relaxing in the sleigh to controlling the huskies.

When sleighing, all you have to do is keep your distance with the sled in front of you. You can do this using the ‘soft’ brake in which you stand on a mat. This will cause drag and slow you down a little. The huskies are strong and eager though so you once in a while will have to use the ‘hand brake’. This one will gently but certainly get you to a full stop. Steering the sled when turning? You don’t have to do much. It pretty much goes by itself.

A husky sledding experience to never forget

For me, this sure is in the top of the list of best experiences ever. A true ‘bucket-list’ check! It is as awesome as you’d imagine when you see these kind of adventures on TV. In fact, after some time it can be hard to image you actually did it!

And if reading this article didn’t convince you to go try it out, then check out the video below. If that doesn’t get you excited… well… I guess you’re not a fan of snow and/or dogs in the first place.

Go on your own husky sledding adventure

Want to try it yourself? If you have the opportunity, don’t doubt. It’s a lifetime experience I would recommend to anyone of all ages.

I went with the very helpful and friendly Norwegians at Fagerlund Husky. They offer several tours, varying in length and location. For personal advise, you can contact them by phone. Bookings and availability can be found here.

In for some good old winter fun in Oslo?! Need a little adrenaline rush? Head out and sleigh the Korketrekkeren! You won’t regret it!

Using a toboggan, a traditional and simple sled that is used for transportation in the past, you can now have a lot of winter fun on the Korketrekkeren. Literally translated as “the corkscrew”, this track runs between Frognerseteren and Midtstuen and is operated by the municipality.

You can use the track free of charge as it’s maintained by the municipality. Opening hours? Well, that really depends on the snow conditions. In the winter of 2017, it took up until the beginning of February before there was enough snow.

The speed of the track depends very much on the freshness of the snow. When the snow is fresh and powdery, it goes faster than when the snow is heavy and wet. The track gets at it’s craziest when it’s icy. In icy conditions it can actually be too fast and dangerous.

Want to try it out? Head out to Frognerseteren (reachable by metro) and lend a sleigh (kjelke) and helmet from the akeforeningen. It’s not possible to rent a sleigh when they consider the conditions not to be suitable. If you are not sure about the conditions, you can contact them by phone (see website for details)

History

The track used to be a road and was made into a luge track in the 1880’s. In fact, a bobsleigh track was built from the same starting point for the 1952 winter Olympics. As this was a temporary, artificial track with curves being constructed in snow and then frozen hard to ice, the bobsleigh track nowadays is by far gone.

There have been occasional proposals to build a permanent bobsleigh track but the selection of Lillehammer to be the host of the 1994 winter Olympics host stopped this debate.

That it’s not just slow fun becomes clear in the fact that in 2007, there were two serious accidents on the hill and it was subsequently closed by the police. The municipality then renovated the hill, removing poles and polstering dangerous edges.

Sleigh the Korketrekkeren on ice?!

I have been out there… a sunny day in the beginning of February. It was crowded and the track was icy. The result was absolutely crazy. The speed, the lack of control, it was hilarious and perhaps a little dangerous. One thing is for sure, you’ll know you live!

When I think about winter sports, I think about skiing and snowboarding. However, when I think skiing it’s actually alpine/slalom skiing. If a Norwegian talks about skiing, it’s cross country skiing.

During winter, when there is enough snow, there are many, many cross country skiing trails to be found around Oslo. As this sport is very popular, many of these trails are signed and even groomed! This makes it very convenient and so I set out to go on my first ever cross country skiing trip in Lommedalen. But first, why is it so popular? And is it hard to do?

The Norwegian history on cross country skiing

When you ask anyone in Norway why skiing is popular, the Norwegians will tell you they are born with skis on their feet. It makes sense. With snow all over the place for months during the winter, it’s an easy way for transportation. This also explains it’s popularity. In the past, it was purely a way to get from A to B the easiest and most convenient way.

Nowadays it transformed into to a fun and social sport. From recreational to fitness purpose, many Norwegians spend their spare time on skis. And it shows. During the winter Olympics Norway is a country that dominates in any sport that relates to cross country skiing. From marathons to biathlons, the Norwegians are always high in the ranks.

What you need for cross country skiing

You don’t need too much for cross country skiing. As long as you keep moving, even clothing stays rather limited as you quite quickly find yourself sweating when going a little uphill. Some good thermal clothing at it’s base is required. Other than that you want clothing that is not too wide and fluffy, but not too tight either as you require the freedom to move. Be sure to bring some additional dry clothing in a backpack for when you are done or take a brake, you cool down quickly when you are not moving.

The skis itself are rather different from your slalom/alpine skis. The are much thinner and allow your heel to come off the ski itself. The boots are also far less rigid compared to alpine boots. This is to allow you the freedom to move. Don’t forget to bring ski poles! Cross country skiing requires a lot of balance. You will definitely need them to get started. You will find some Norwegians going about without them, but these are most likely very experienced and actually training their balance to improve their technique.

My experience in Lommedalen

As usual, I felt completely out of my comfort zone in my cycling gear between all the experienced Norwegians. It must have looked foolish, and the Norwegians have a name for that. “A Dane on skis” is what they call somebody like me. Goofy but miraculously moving. And that’s exactly what I did!

It took some initial practice but then I was going places. It sure didn’t look elegant, but it was for sure a nice workout. Lommedalen is a very peaceful place which feels as if you are far away from the big city. Everything is white, the track wonderfully groomed and the sun peaking trough once in a while.

I was lucky to be surrounded by two real Norwegians that were able to assist me getting the grips of this fun sport. It’s highly recommended you bring yours if you set out on your first trip.

How to get started?

You don’t need to much experience to get started. In the beginning it might feel a little uncomfortable and it seems like you are not moving anywhere. The trick is, when setting of with one feet, to almost make a forward jump on one feet while not letting the skies leave to snow. In this way you get maximum grip to push yourself forward.

Start out slowly, technique is more important than speed. When going downhill, if there is a groomed track, just stay in it while bending a little trough your knees. You can slow down a little by placing one of the skies a little sideways in the snow.

While you can use your poles to push you forward, it’s not meant for that purpose. With a good technique, all you need them for is balancing. You will probably use them a lot to start with, but quite soon you’ll find out this is extremely heavy on the arms! If you use them, try slowing down and focus on technique!

Finding a groomed trail

Finding a groomed trail is very easy in the surroundings of Oslo. As it’s such a popular sport, there’s the Norwegian Ski Association that maintains a website with the current status of many of the tracks. Have a look on this map and plan your trip!

It’s the first weekend of February and snow is finally falling! Quite a lot of it actually, so me and Tøsen set out for some winter fun near Sognsvann. And we are not alone. Sognsvann is a popular leisure destination for locals. Let’s find out why!

Sognsvann is a relatively small lake in Oslomarka, north of Oslo. It’s located between Maridalen lake and Holmenkollen and is very easy to reach using the subway. The area is a popular destination for the locals as it offers a wide variety of outdoor options. Besides walking, the area is very well suited for cross country skiing, biking and many other leisure activities.

Due to the recent snowfall, I figured now is the time to check it out and have a long walk with my dog Tøsen. At arrival, I find out I am not the only one. The car park is big but packed with cars and people. It seems like we all have the same idea and have some fun in the snow.

Nevertheless, the area is big enough for all of us. You can go north almost as long as you like and you’ll get deeper and deeper into Nordmarka. The further you go, to more quite it gets. So when you find yourself in Oslo, and are longing for a nice walk, bike ride or cross country skiing trip then there is no better place to start then at Sognsvann!

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How to go to Sognsvann?

Sognsvann is very easy to reach by foot, car and public transport. As it’s a popular leisure area for locals, there is enough free parking space. This is most likely also caused by Norges Idrettshøgskole (Norwegian School of Sport Sciences). So even though there is enough space, it can be quite busy.

If you are considering public transport, then you are in luck. There is a subway station called Sognsvann and it’s actually the end station of the line. Line 5 goes all around the city center and will take you to Sognsvann. For more details, check out ruter.no

It’s the start of February and it seems like winter is about to get it’s grip again on southern Norway. The past day a fresh layer of snow has reached the forest of Nordmarka. Time to get out, uh, the bike! I want to find out if it’s possible to cycle trough Nordmarka this time of year. Not on a city bike or even a mountain bike, no, on a cyclocross bike. Can it be done?

After a good breakfast and some proper preparation in terms of bike, clothing and planning I drive towards Sørkedalen where I will start my ride. Upon arrival, parking is packed with people. With the little fresh snow of the last couple of days, it seems to have everybody excited for some cross country skiing. And I’m the only one with a bike… I feel out of place and frowns are coming my way. I must be mad…

Gear considerations

First of, you need proper gear. You head out in winter time with temperatures below freezing point. As long as you bike you are active and you will find yourself warm. But when that stops, a flat or a fall, it gets cold very quick! Make sure you wear enough clothing and bring a backpack with some additional clothing. If all goes well, consider the backpack as extra load for training purposes.

Second, you need tires with with spikes. I’ve mounted my Continental Nordic Spike tires. Not fully inflated they do very well on icy surfaces. Besides that, disc brakes are brilliant in these conditions too. Snow will slightly clog up your caliper brakes which will make your ride even tougher then it already is.

Don’t bring CO2 canisters. It won’t help you at all in these kind of conditions! As you use them, they freeze do to the rapid decompression. It’s freezing outside too so the result is a CO2 canister fixed to your wheel that won’t come off..

A mountainbike or fatbike would of course make this ride a lot more comfortable and easy, but what’s the fun in that?! (indeed, at the moment I just don’t have access to a mountain- or fatbike)

All important planning

Planning such a ride is crucial. Going out into Nordmarka, you are somewhat far from civilization. Sure as long as you bike, all is relative, but if that stops, you are far away from help. Make sure you bring a charged phone. Other items are extra clothing, some lights and additional food. It may sound extreme, but here, Norway in winter time, you don’t want to get stuck with too little.

This is why pre-ride planning is important. The conditions are treacherous during this time of year. In fact, you don’t even know the road conditions until you are actually there. Is the snow compact or fresh? Can you plough trough with a cyclocross bike? Halfway during my ride the snow got too deep and I couldn’t keep traction. I could have risked walking on for a bit, but I had no guarantee the conditions would improve. While it sucked, I decided to turn around and abandon my original plan.

Part of that decision are the weather predictions. There was more snowfall late in the afternoon. Of all things, I wanted to make sure I stay ahead of that. Yes, biking while it’s snowing is fun, but with a bit of bad luck, the snow hits hard. When it’s a lot the road can quickly fill up with centimeters of fresh snow, making it impossible for you to still pass trough! And before you know it, you are stuck!

Cyclocross snow

So can it be done? Did I prove cross country skiers wrong from frowning upon me and my bike? Absolutely! Cyclocross snow is a lot of fun and a very technical experience. It’s kind of like riding trough a thin layer of sand. A constant wet muddy trail. It requires agility and skills to stay upright, even with spikes. Of course the straight is easy enough, but even there, sudden grooves in the snow can cause a weird pull on your steer.

The route I rode, which I planned but couldn’t complete, took my ‘square by the nuts‘ from the start. It went up, up and up. This ain’t that easy when the snow slows you down too. But with magnificent views and, after leaving the cross country skiers behing, the tranquility makes it a wonderful experience in solitude.

Halfway the planned route the path became filled with a thick layer of fresh snow of about 30cm deep. That’s where I had to abandon the original plan. I’m sure if you follow my trail during summer you have no problem passing here, so as mentioned, adjust to the conditions whenever you are there.

I took the same road back and while I don’t like doing that, I had one guarantee; down, down and down! I reached relatively high speeds, considering I was riding snow. This brings me to my final tip, you need experience and skills to to go fast. Better be safe than sorry! Cornering in snow is like cornering in sand. It will push and pull your steer in directions you don’t want to go.

The difference between sand and snow? Usually the deep sand will feel soft when you fall in it. The snow? Not so much. Besides it’s quite cold and wet, snow is, well, ice! Ice patches just beneath the snow are unforgiving! Just take care and don’t let the adrenaline take control.

Cyclocross snow in more than a thousand words

Have you ever tried skiing? Maybe you have been going down the slopes, tried cross country or even tried snowboarding. It all looks very modern and you might even think it’s a sport invented in the last century. This could not be more wrong. The Holmenkollen ski museum displays the story of human kind picking up skiing much longer ago. As far back as 4000 years!

Located underneath Oslo’s ski jump in Holmenkollen the worlds oldest ski museum can be found. Holmenkollen ski museum has openend it’s doors in 1923 and is therefore the world’s oldest museum specialized in skiing. With several exhibitions it covers a variety of topics. One thing is for sure, if you never considered skiing, this modern museum for all ages will definitely make you do so!

Winter joy at Holmenkollen

Vinterglede, as this exhibition is called in Norwegain, is all about the winter joy. Opened in June 2007 on the 1st floor, you can see the many variations of joy the winter and snow brings. Meet great Norwegian skiers from all ages and get a glimpse of the development of the Holmenkollen ski jump over the last century. Yes, the massive ski jump you are under while visiting this museum started out as just a snow jump.

Many great films will show you the joy people and athletes had in the past and present as well as memorable moments in skiing history.

Freedom on Snow

This exhibition opened in November 2014 and is all about the freedom on skiing and snowboarding. You get to see gorgeous pictures and video on modern skiing and snowboarding, the history of modern ski- and snowboarding and much more. This exhibition is not only fun for adults but definitely for children too. In fact, you can try to snowboard and ski yourself on the indoor gyro boards! Be sure to check out the film made by Field Productions.

Polar exhibitions

In the Holmenkollen ski museum you will find exciting information and artifacts from some of the most important polar expeditions in history. Even before the opening of the Holmenkollen ski museum, explorers Nansen and Amundsen donated much of their equipment from their expeditions to the Association for the Promotion of Skiing.

Imagine, Fridtjof Nansen went across Greenland on ski’s in 1888. During his expedition he tested various equipment such as ski’s, sleeping bags and boots. Between 1893 and 1896 Nansen and his crew intended to sail the Artic Ocean in order to reach the North Pole expedition using a ship called ‘Fram’.

Between 1910 and 1912, Roald Amundsen was in a race to beat British explorers to be the first to reach the South pole. Amundsen reached the pole on the 14th of December 1911 while the British team, led by Captain Robert Falcon Scott arrived on the 18th of January 1912. The entire British crew perished on their return journey.

Børge Ousland has undertaken several Arctic and Antarctic expeditions and is a modern example of a polar explorer.

The stories of these explorers are incredible and artifacts from their journey, as well as documents can be found in the Holmenkollen ski museum. It’s hard to imagine how harsh it must have been while we stand in a warm and comfortable modern museum.

Northern Lights

All over the world people are and always have been fascinated by the Northern Lights. It’s a stunning phenomenon that you don’t get to see every day. In fact, you need to be very close to the earth’s pole’s and even then you need a good dose of luck. No wonder visitors from all over the world flock to northern Norway to experience this bucket list natural event.

In the Holmenkollen ski museum you can watch a documentary that takes you on a journey from myths and early science to our modern understanding of the northern lights.

‘Be prepared’

The exhibition be prepared is inevitable and a must for the Holmenkollen ski museum. So far, my stay in Oslo has been snow-less. And while there are some that believe climate change is a hoax created by the Chinese, the fact is that our climate is changing. It has always done, but this time it’s us, humans that cause it. This exhibition show how and what the disastrous outcome can be if we don’t change our ways. The signs are critical and skiing and snowboarding might become a rare sight near Oslo.

Views from the jump tower

Done reading and viewing artifacts behind glass? It’s time to gaze over Holmenkollen and Oslo. And elevator brings you all the way to the top of the ski jump tower. Experience the views an athlete has before he plunges down into the pit filled with people. I’m sure the thought will make you shiver. But I’m also sure you will be amazed by the beautiful panoramic view. See Olso and Oslo fjord in a glimp, look far into the forest, or marka as it’s called in Norwegian and be blown away.

A solid 2 hour drive from Oslo you’ll find a very well know Norwegian city called Lillehammer. With a population of around 20.000 it sure ain’t in the top of Norway’s biggest cities. Yet it’s well known among most of us as the host of the 1994 Winter Olympics. I’ve set out to have a look and discover this city.

Located in the district of Gudbrandsdal within the Oppland county, Lillehammer is not only a town. It’s also the name of the municipality of which the town itself is the administrative center.

The, for most of us, small city center mostly consist of a concentration of 19th-century wooden houses. It’s location is wonderful. Surrounded by mountains and with views over the northern part of lake Mjøsa and the river LÃ¥gen picturesque scenes are guaranteed.

Strolling Lillehammer city center

Lillehammer’s city center is quite small, but it sure gives it’s authentic and cozy atmosphere. I’m here during the winter, so I do have to watch where I set foot as it can be slippery. As Lillehammer has been an important trading area since 1300s it does not only offer your average kind of stores.

In the wooden buildings you will find specialized stores with craft products, interior and souvenirs. Besides that, you can visit galleries and museums. But don’t rush! Make sure you visit one of the many cozy and warm cafes or restaurants as well.

Throwback to the 1994 Olympics

Up the hill, not far away from Lillehammer center, you find a place called LysgÃ¥rdsbakkene, the ski jumping hill used during the 1994 winter Olympics. Whether it’s summer or winter time, this is a must visit if you ask me. The fact that sportsman are crazy enough to launch them from these ski jumps is impressive.

Best of all though is that you are more than welcome to walk the 954 steps to the top of the Ski jumping arena. It’s though, but the views over the city and surroundings are very rewarding.

With time to spare

If you have more than a day to spend in Lillehammer, there is actually a lot more you can get out of your trip. During winter time there are loads of winter sports and activities for you to try. The summer ain’t much different, though the type of activity is most likely to be different.

While most of the activities available are on a small to far distance for the actual city of Lillehammer, many of them are must do’s! How about going down the Olympic bob- and lunge track? Or test yourself on the Olympic 50km cross country trail? It’s all possible in this beautiful region by the name of Lillehammer.

When you find yourself in Oslo in December and you’re lucky to wake up a Sunday morning with sunshine it’s the best chance to go out and get amazing views over the city and Oslo fjord. I decide to go up to Grefsenkollen, a hill on the northwest side of Oslo.

Grefsenkollens highest point is about 377 meter above sea-level and lends itself for a variety of outdoor activities all year round. From hiking to biking and from sleighing to skiing, this hill next to Oslo is usually quite busy due to it’s proximity to Oslo.

To get there is very easy. A bus line takes you straight to the top and other than that, it’s a small hour hike to get from bottom to top. During winter time, if you fancy to try out some skiing or snowboarding, Oslo skisenter offers you this opportunity. Smaller than the Oslo Vinterpark it’s a more local ski center but still offers all services you might expect as equipment rental and lessons.

Whatever you do, after your activity you can visit Grefsenkollen restaurant or the Over Oslo bar. Due note that on this unique location the prices are steep, though this is a general thing in Norway anyway. On a side note, do not expect a lot of service in the Over Oslo bar (or did I hit it at a bad time?)

The panoramic views from Grefsenkollen

While every season, every type of weather and every time of the day changes the spectacular views, without further ado, the views I’ve seen:

It’s another Sunday in December I set out for my second hike near Olso, Norway. This time I’m equipped with the experience from last weeks hike and with that knowledge I go out with a lot more confidence. On the map I’ve spotted a location with lots of little lakes and hills just north of Oslo called Nordmarka.

It’s 10 in the morning and I’m still home, drinking a cup of coffee and gathering some gear. Knowing it gets dark early, this time I’d figure to bring some lights to not get in trouble after sunset. Other than that, I figured it would be wise to bring some more food. Bananas, yes, lot’s of them!

Next up, the weather. The looks from my window are somewhat depressing. It’s very cloudy, but lets stay optimistic, it doesn’t rain! Checking the weather using the Norwegian website yr.no I found that it’s not that cold today. A mere minus 1 to minus 3 is considered warm. It is cloudy though and while it’s most likely not in Olso itself, there might be a very little snowfall. Not the kind of weather that makes me anxious. The chance of some snow actually excites me!

Heading to Nordmarka

Scanning the map, north of Oslo there seems to be a place with loads of relatively high hills and loads of little lakes. Even better, there are even two big lakes called Østre Fyllingen and Bjørnsjøen. “Will they be frozen?” is the first question that comes to mind. Completely inexperienced in this environment, I am determined to find out.

The area I’m looking at is called Nordmarka, the biggest sub region of the Marka area. Marka is the name for the mainly forested region surrounding Oslo. It’s popular by the inhabitants of Oslo for hiking, biking and skiing possibilities. The Norwegian word ‘Marka‘ is the finite form of the word ‘mark‘ and means ‘woodland, forest’. And while I won’t need it today, it hosts many cabins and even for overnight accommodation.

I choose not to plan out a route on forehand, but to just find the location where I can park the car. On the map I find a place called Sørkedalen which is on a little 20 minute drive from Oslo. It has a big parking area so it must be the starting point of something. From there, I had the option to follow some trails and find some of the higher viewpoints or to check out some of the lakes.

Whether I’m going to make it to the big lakes or if I have the time to check out the panoramic view points I don’t know. I’m leaving a bit late and I can see it’s a serious walk to get to the two big lakes. But I got my lights this time, so I’ll see where this journey will bring me.

In for rough start

Driving out of the city, the first thing I notice is that it’s slippery. No, I’m not on foot yet, just in the car, but the advised 60 is for sure not a good idea. Reaching the parking are in Sørkedalen I find that it’s quite busy. Of course I’m not the only one heading out on a Sunday. Though I do notice that hiking is not the only activity people are out for today.

So there I go, together with my dog, sliding down the road and following a path next to a little creek to the start of an uphill walk. It turns out to become an upward battle. The path has become so icy, both me and my dog have serious trouble getting up. Finding our grip while holding my camera is not easy, but we manage to reach a higher part where the path turned a lot more solid.

By now, most people I have seen at the parking area are gone. I feel alone in the Norwegian ‘wilderness’ again and guess what, that’s what I’m looking for. And to my delight, it started snowing! It’s just a very little, but it gives the whole hike a totally different feeling.

Making my way trough the dense forest I go higher and higher up. I reach open plains that offer some nice sights over Sørkedalen. Once in a while checking my GPS position and direction I’m being thought another lessen. Don’t walk in an icy forest while looking at your phone or camera… The forest will punish you! With a swift swoosh I make a hard landing on my but on the icy trail and yes, my rather expensive DSLR camera was hanging around my neck. While I get up quickly I rated the incident a 9 out of 10. An almost perfect landing without any pain or damage and I proudly walk on.

I’m not the only one slipping and sliding around though. My dog Tøsen has a hard time figuring out what is going on too. But with some guidance she managed absolutely fine. As for myself, on the smaller icy paths, I started walking at the side of it. The deeper snow, branches and bushes offer a lot more stable soil. And if I had no way around it, I came to the conclusion that moving forward slowly while spreading your legs a bit was the best way to go. It ain’t a pretty sight though. If anything, it looks as if you crapped your pants…

In for the long haul

After passing some very picturesque houses and more and more snowy trails, I find myself on a ‘big’ road going deep into Nordmarka. By now it’s 2 o’clock and I’m 5 kilometers in. Knowing sunset will come in quick just after 3 o’clock and with the lakes on a 3 kilometer distance, I figured it would be cool to just follow this wide path. It allows me to pick up some speed and make it to the lakes quick enough, before having to walk another small 8 kilometers back.

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Yes, it’s a huge walking distances but knowing my self, I know that it won’t be a problem. While picking up the pace, I find that I still have to be very careful as some parts of this wide path downwards is still very slippery. But it’s oh so rewarding! At some places I’m served very beautiful views over the valley and snowy hills. In fact, while it can be hard to see, you get glimpses of all the lakes. I straight away have the answer to my “frozen lake” question. The answer is a full mouthed yes! Frozen and white, no matter how big the lake is.

Standing between Østre Fyllingen and Bjørnsjøen I take a well deserved break. It’s absolutely beautiful and the silence is mesmerizing. And then it hit me. The power lines crossing straight trough the valley and across the lake…

It kind of ruins the solitude I experience as it reminds me of the huge agglomerations around this area. South from here you have Norways capital Oslo and going northwest from here will get you in Hønefoss. I get it, what else? But it still feels like a smudge on this beautiful location. Ah well, Norway is huge and if I really don’t want to see this, I should move my touristic ass away from the big city and go more north.

Into the darkness

After my short break, I decide to start making my way back, following the ‘big’ road back. Darkness falls over me soon and while I consider to take a side path into the obscured trails to a panoramic view point, I realize that when I get there, it will not give me the views i’m hoping for. It will be pitch black dark by the time I’m there.

And you know what? I’m getting tired, the dog is getting tired, I don’t think I should risk it on the smaller, icy trails. No, I’m not far from the big city, but when ‘shit hits the fan’ here, it’s still a very long, long way from help. Turning on my lights and the dogs collar light while it’s getting more dark, I’m getting a finale to my hike. The moon peeks trough the misty clouds and shines it’s lights over Nordmarka.

After a good 5 hours of walking in snow and ice I reach the car. Both me and my dog are toast but very satisfied of our hike. An impressive 17.2 kilometer has been bridged and we are both still safe and alive. We head back home, crash on the couch and dream on about this wonderful experience. I guess we need a week to recover before we set out to our next adventure. Maybe next time, I will find myself a cabin. Have a nights sleep traditional style though the sight of the power lines make me feel I should do this far deeper into the country. Nevertheless, for a day hike around Olso, Nordmarka is a wonderful place to be!

On a beautiful but frisky Saturday in the beginning of December I set out to hike the Maridalen Alps. Maridalen itself is a valley north of Oslo. In the valley you’ll find Maridalsvannet, a lake that serves as the primary source of drinking water. 90% of Oslo’s population get’s it’s water from this lake. But I set out to hike the hills, going up to 500 meter above sea level, to check out the spectacular forest and panoramic views.

It’s a very short drive from Oslo city center to get to the starting point, a parking area at the Sandermosveien in Maridalen. On my way to there I pass the Maridalsvannet lake. It’s a strange feeling. Within minutes you go from a busy city, to the quite country side of Oslo.

Once parked and prepared, I start the hike using a route I found online. It serves as a guideline. While it’s still close to the city, the Maridalen Alps is by far not your average city kind of forest. Coming from Amsterdam, this forest makes the places in the Netherlands nothing more than fancy parks. While Norwegians suggest this is not to be compared with the wilderness more north of the country, my assumption that this is a quite rugged area was more than correct.

Preparation is key

Setting out for a 10 km hike in Maridalen with little experience in this area or conditions is very important. While I had a sense of how long the hike would take, it’s still very hard to estimate. Other things to consider are questions like; ‘how is the weather?’, ‘what are the trail conditions?’ and not to forget, how much time do I have before it gets dark?

Knowing I wanted to take some pictures with my DSLR camera, I knew I would be standing still for minutes. Current temperatures of around -5 Celsius can cool you down very quickly. So first of all, I made sure I was wearing proper clothing and shoes. Norwegians love wool. And they are right. Wool underwear in the form of a long sleeved shirt and pants help immensely. On top of that I was wearing a fleece vest and waterproof winter sports clothing. Don’t go under dressed. Live by the rule; You can take off what’s too much, but you can’t put on what you didn’t bring.

Other things I brought was food, drinks and two pairs of gloves. While walking I quickly realized that in the case I got lost or stuck, I had no lights with me. And at this time of the year, twilight hits you around 15.30 and it doesn’t take long before it’s proper dark.

Of course you can take it quite far. What of a battery pack to re-charge your phone? I used mine as a GPS tracker so I could keep track of my location and the route I was planning to walk. I was happy did as at some points during the hike, the snow made it impossible to see the trail, making me wondering left to right with my eyes fixed on my phone screen. Going of track can be very though with the deep snow and in fact a bit dangerous and slippery.

So most important in my case was to start the hike with fully charged equipment, warm clothing and a very good mood.

Following the trail

Starting from the parking area, the beginning of the route eases you in very smoothly. A wide gravel road slowly leads you up into the hills. At this time of the year, many of the little streams of water are covered with ice patches. The snow that has fallen earlier, ensures that you have to stay a bit alert. It can be quite slippery, especially when the ground isn’t level.

Walking on, the wide road abruptly ended and turned into a little trail. A few meters further and you find the first little bridges crossing streams. Well, let me rephrase that. It seems like it used to be a little bridge. It’s now nothing more than a collection of wooden bars covered in ice, snow and rocks. With some agility I jumped and hopped my way over, trying not to get wet by the freezing cold water.

Surprisingly, some patches of green moss aren’t that stable as you think it might be. A layer of water and ice beneath it make it very squishy and would it have been a little less frozen, I’m quite sure I would have gotten myself wet feet.

Further on, it got steep. A look at my GPS route also straight told me I was off track… already… A very steep climb trough, working myself trough trees, branches and stone got me back on track. Not for long though.

Download GPX

Panoramic views over Maridalen

The higher I got, the more hints I got of the spectacular views I was about to see. The more snow too! It’s absolutely wonderful to walk around here. The silence, the clean air, it makes it all worth it. After some time going upwards, just a little break to enjoy the silence made realize I could hear my own heartbeat.

And there it was, the first panoramic view from the Mellomkollen. It gives a majestic view over Maridalen lake and looking even further a glimp of Oslo city and it’s fjord. As I’m an hour and a half into the hike, it’s time for some refreshment while enjoying this view.

Moving on the trail becomes tough and the steep incline and snow make it hard to stay on track. Having my phone in my one hand while the other is touching ground for support, I work my way up to the next view point. It’s here, Midtkollen, where it got really though.

Deep snow, lot’s of elevation changes and no sign of a trail left me wondering again. It’s here I actually got a tiny worried. Navigating this, knowing I only had 2 to 3 hours of daylight left, was hard. I was maybe just half way but already spend 2 hours. And I had no idea how long this rugged path would take me.

It didn’t change my mood though. Around every corner there was another beautiful sight to admire. From frozen lakes to fairy tail kind of trees and moss made me wonder if I would actually spot a real Norwegian troll. Of course I didn’t, they don’t come out in bright daylight. It needs to be very foggy for them to show up. Oh and no, I did not eat shrooms during my hike.

The way down

After finding the trail again using my phone, it became a lot easier. The snow slowly became less and the trail wider. Yet I had to remain vigilant. The ice patches made me slide around while holding my camera in the hand. It sure keeps you sharp and awake.

By now it became clear I was going to make it before twilight. In the last bit, of course I got of track again but following a trail down the side of the hill, I was quite sure it would lead me back to the main gravel road. From there it was a breeze to get back to the car.

All in all I’ve hiked and exact distance of 10 km taking 2 and an half hour of active walking time. This seems fast, but overall, I spend a little less than 4 hours in the Maridalen Alps. Driving home south, with the sunset as final show, this hike made me beg for more. Not today, as I’m toast, but I’ll sure be back soon.

What did I learn?

Well first of all, I might change a few things in my preparation. A bottle of cola and a bag of chips is maybe a bit little. Then the lights. I didn’t need them this time, but it’s better to be safe than sorry. The clothing? Well that was a bit overkill. It did help me a lot during 10 minute brakes to take pictures and such, so I probably won’t change much to it if I know I’ll be doing that.

Other than that, do not go out hiking when the snow conditions are worse! You can’t see the trail at all. I guess if there is a lot of snow, I will be out snowshoeing. Yes, that is actually an activity here I really like to try out.

Other than that, the GPS application I was using did not had such a detailed view of the trails. I highly recommend to either get a good hiking map or print the area from a a great source like Norgeskart.

How to get there?

I got there by car. From Oslo, there is pretty much one way that leads to Maridalen and Maridalsvannet. I recommend you use Google Maps (note that you can make areas offline available)

By train is a very good alternative. Line L3  (nsb.no) can take you to a station called Snippen from where it’s a small walk to the parking spot I started my hike. But be creative as there seem to be many trails that can get you to the same spots as I have visited.